Around the Kola Peninsula in 80 days


Information taken from the website
Irina OpanchukAround Kola for 80 days
(31 July – 18 October 2008)
mapTumanniy- Porchniha – r. Olenka – Zahrebetnoe – guba Kekurskaya – Rynda – guba Chegodaevka – Wide Bay – Kharlovka – Red Cape – Cape Voyatka – Fedotovka Bay – Cape Likhaya Pakhta – East Litsa – Lake. Poperechnoe- guba Polyutiha – dead creek – in front of the hut, the White – Sidorovka lip – guba Yard – Cape Yard – Varzim – Drozdovka – the estuary. Drozdovka – r. Black – Bay Ivanovo – Saviha Bay – Cape Klyatny – Gremikha – guba Yokanga – r. Buhtovka – Holy Nose Cape – Cape Cow – r. Kashkarakka – West Bay – Lumbovsky Gulf – r. Black – r. Lumbovka – r. Gerbil – r. small gerbil – r. Kumzhiha – Gorodetsky lighthouse – Bay Chetyrehrogaya – r. Vilovataya – Deer Cove – Bay Panfilov – Kachkovskii Bay – Cape Acute Ludka – Hapaevskaya guba – Lakkuev stream – r. Orlovka – of Anfal – Orlovka Bay – Terek-Orlovsky lighthouse – guba Rusinga – district of the three islands – of High Hill – r. Ponoy – Lahti – Cape Red – fish. Izba Kuzmina – guba Kisloha – chalet Kuzminskaya News – r. Danilovka – r. Pyalka – Cape Red Schelya – r. Puddle – Sosnovka – r. Deep – r. Babya – r. Lihodeevka – r. Pulonga – r. Kumzhevaya – d Pyalitsa -. Nikodimsky lighthouse – Chapoma – r. Eugene – r. Strelna – Tetrino – Kamenka – Chavanga – Varzuga – Umba – Kandalaksha




It’s time for the road, man.

July 31

From Murmansk alternately hitchhiking leaving in the village. Fog. Asphalt – about 100 km, then the primer. Cars are rare. We spend the night at Tumanka river, put a tent next to the road. Space rapidly depopulated. And the day did not pass, as the northern wilderness has blossomed in all its glory birch, moss, dampness and rainbows.



Great omen!

August 1

In the morning before we embark on the road zafyrchala machine. We ran out barefoot, people stopped and calmly waited until we meet. Before reaching the Far Zelencov have abandoned checkpoint Stopped another car, whose driver, having learned about the route, sympathetically threw us 12 km to the bay Porchniha, waved and went back about his business in Long Zelentsy. The road ended, on – trail.

Places already impressive. The cliffs, canyons, walls more than 100 meters. Beauty! Patterned moss draws ancient runes on every step, giant weathered stones lie small stones, which seem to have placed specially. Walking is easy – Tundra affable, kurumniki rare – moss. Komarov no, the whole of July was the bad weather, with an average temperature (12-14) and then + (4-8). Today drizzles continuously windy, sometimes pours. Prior to the abandoned outpost Zahrebetnoe – a series of small streams. Olenka River proved problematic for the crossing. Suspension bridge across it destroyed. We went up to 400 m above, and switched from Ford Arbuzov, tightly laced hands. Water above the waist. Soaked and frozen. I burst boots on the seam, only bought before going! Shustrov not kept in the coupling, and it was demolished, he bathed and missed warm pants + frying pan mushrooms, swallowed water, well – do not hit a stone. Go Olenka, for us with him, the newcomers to the North, as the battle was checked.




R. Olenka

We climbed to a high sandy bank to the former outpost. From the big house there were only walls with a roof, even the floor someone blew. Kindle fire just inside, in batteries, once served heated, they also hang wet things, change into dry, Arbuzov allocates 50g of alcohol “for the dedication,” we stop klatsat teeth and shivering, and finally begin to share experiences. The commander also loss – new pants torn, came off the strap, zipper broken, and most importantly – has broken tyulpanchik from spinning. Our miner immediately went on a fishing trip, and came across a guard walking with a bag of fish. Then after a while the same man, but in a riot policeman mask, without fish, and with a carbine bursts into our house, distorts the gate, and instructs the barrel, rather than treat fish requires give spinning! We laugh together, talk – learned assure that we have such an expedition, such as an environmental journalist-priest, that the fish in the rivers we do not catch (hint – just eat), he reminds us of the fire safety and leaves. Then another came, asked why we still have not left. Strangely, we do not look like on the poachers. In short, the fish have not brought. Sleep had an open loft under the howling wind. Wise Arbuzov instinctively hid from the wind behind the rafters, but no one said anything.

August 2

Weather again not thank those that do not pour any way yesterday. Still cold, sometimes warmer for an hour or two, then froze again. Still we move on the posts here other than deer trails, terrain pass in all directions, though rocky. Many lakes found on the road, go around them to the left, then right. The main thing is not to lose sight of the commander, he always knows where to pass. Often after the steep slopes it is not visible and you have to choose the road itself, it does not always correctly and successfully. Arbuzov yelling and angry that he had to wait for us. Woods is not at all, there are overgrown with birch 2-3 m, but very rarely and inconsistently. Descend into one large stream – in the forest slope is not, on the other slope appears. Leskov length of 100 m. At different Shustrova injured knee, the load on the joints very much. At night, we get up in the Bay Kekurskaya, in the house of signalmen.

On the way to crossing the river Kekurskuyu Tryaschina, came to meet us and Luda Nicholas, both of Severomorsk work on bell in the camp for foreigners, from which the charge of guard here. Zazvat we drink tea, treated seaweed salad, and sauerkraut usual special preparation – with honey. Very hospitable people, so we had a good talk, rest. Thank them!
House signalers in Bay Kekurskaya

3, 4 August

House in a bay Kekurskoy small, cozy, two couches, there is a stove and kitchenware.

Well, all entered the house. We Arbuzov use the respite to study Cape Butorin.

Interestingly, there is indicated on the map under the symbol “house”? It was found preserved several residential buildings, house for 7 people, sauna and diesel – though in disrepair. Around the bridges over lakes, and on the top of the toe – inclosure, gradually imprinted in the environment of granite boulders. Electric rusted, cracked sockets, bits of wire, only the sea in the tarnished window always has a rough rocks.
The road to Cape Butorin

We went down to the edge – sloping, slippery rocks, sheaves splash, scary, poskolzneshsya – not vyplyvesh. We returned to the red rocks like the steps back. Attention should be paid and the canyon in the Cape, punched out to sea. This vertical 5-7 m with a sharp-edged walls. Very beautiful. At the bottom of the sea raging, it is worth hum.

The ship entered the bay, the fishermen went to pick mushrooms, we came to visit. During the attacks pick up anything that might be useful – for example, in an old bucket, bring the Cape, you can heat water and wash perfectly.
Cape Butorin

5th of August

We make the transition to the bell. Again gloomy, mosquitoes and not – say this year they did not exist, and we stocked up mosquito nets, repellents. The bell on the former site of the village, where in the 19th century (before the revolution) ship from Arkhangelsk walked every day, there were some dilapidated houses with blind, broken windows. There still are people born with the fog and the Far Zelencov, indigenous one. On the shore we to shout from the house on the side of the people went out and moved us to the mouth of the river by motorboat (conditionally perehodima at low tide). Here we spend the night, and Sergei and Taisiya Borisovny in an elegant wooden house, roast freshly caught by prohibiting fishing and fish plates assembled on the road mushrooms. Very nice, hospitable people.

On the wall hangs a photo of the owners – Rynda late 18th – early 19th century. In the foreground, two-headed church, now is a rotten shed. We surveyed the desert surroundings and wonder that once thrived here noisy crowded village. Caught salmon for 30-40 kg piece, 3 tons per year.

We talked about fishing, that no matter how guarded the river, prohibiting fish, all to no avail. Salmon petty and degenerate. Sport fishermen it is not for food, and then to take pictures with it and let it go. Perversion: a fish shock, stress and burns from human hands. Reference was made to a unique and Murmansk Marine Biological Institute in Far Zelentsy, stop work due to lack of funding.
Visiting Sergey and Taisiya Borisovny

August 6

We continue to move. Suddenly, the sun peeps, becomes clear. Hooray, the weather! We quickly reach the Golden River, which is easy to wade. Under the low sun stones so beautifully silhouetted in a lunar landscape. From the Gold makes the transition to Chegodaevku. Mountain just above, pass the large lake with islands. The descent into the deep bay on the way lake, surrounded by ridges of rocks. Ridge clearly laid out by human hands, it is interesting to find out their purpose. Chegodaevka – a wide bay, a house here, however, was destroyed. Drove a lot, as well as everywhere in the bays.

Arbuzov galloping ahead, we do not have time for him, constantly losing sight of him. But how wonderful to go and feel the same in the whole universe! When the road itself is spread under your feet and feel like a pioneer of the world. Lost on a flat plateau, I go out to the sea, look around and see a fire far away. This is our commander for a long time has passed Chegodaevku and spread to the other side of the fire. How nice that you are waiting for, but you have to climb the steep about 2 km, I went into the next bay.



It turned out, even the deep rough river will have to move. Waiting Dima, who went to look for me. We have the burning fire and going to sleep on this side, and go in the morning. But we and the tent, and the products have to pass though and really want to avoid swimming with a backpack. A bright full Shustrov doubts uncomplicated faith in the commander: “Although Arbuzov and shouting and threatening to quit, but he’s good!” As a result, the river go, it’s not so scary. All the same road on the other side, have nowhere to go.

From the diary of Arbuzov:

“My companions are slow and sometimes lost -..? Have to run for the hills to look for them today I long ago crossed the river and made a fire, prepared the night Dima caught up, shouted, where Ira and went to look for her, wasting precious forces, although I I told him not to go, wait, a fire is lit – see Dima left, then arrived, Irina, on the other hand, waiting for him for half an hour: Then they finally met in the night and now the 2nd hour looking for the transition of the river, wandering around the rocks tuda-. here, looking for a ford, which I told them 100 times shown where. I crossed the river, even sheathed camera, and two of them are afraid to go with her poles. I’ll go crazy about them, just eat them. ”
on Chegodaevku view. Curious ridge

7, August 8

In Chegodaevke! Yesterday, all crossings of rivers went to bed at 5 am, of course, it is necessary to arrange a day’s rest. Arbuzov went fishing – in intelligence, but it was not possible to get the fish. Woke up – a fine day, clouds, sun.

The commander went for a walk to a nearby bay:

“There were sand-dunes, many foxes and a great cape, separated from the general array of mountains narrow deep gorge, at the end of which the lapping sea. Most of all, impressed the lake at the turn of the bays, the overlap on both sides of mounds of stones. One of the beds seem … it artificial circle pit lined with stone walls closed as a 1-2m poles dia, h = 0,5 6. Total wonder why they lake -.? a place of transition deer Maybe these pits -. obstacle to ways of their migration? In the bay found chip products made of sandstone on the slope of a sandy hill. Weather excellent all day! The next morning the sky and no clouds at all turned out. We decided that we should spend this glorious day here.


Stone I managed to knock out a grouse with 15 m after -. Go fishing. Yesterday, an hour spent on the judges and for what – one and a half kumzhina palm. But today – 3 Salmon, a total weight of 6 kg! And one with caviar. How it was great to catch it! The male has 3 candles, I really desperate to get him out. First, we, of course, fried fish in cups, and some – pickled. Then I bloated than 3 pieces. Then there were salted pancakes with caviar and a bonfire on the beach. ”


Neighborhood Chegodaevki

The fish is smoked in a rusty barrel, covered with old quilted jacket, promptly inserted into the moss, all found on the ground. This tasty fish never ate!

“Pioneer” bonfire on the beach collected 2 hours, first built skeleton of the 3 beams, height 3 meters, and then lay down in the well of the shore and set fire to garbage. Arbuzov found at low tide cool white plastic spoon instead recently lost, and cap-montazhku.


“And the second day of the camp revolves around deer, he photographed it.



We got right on the beach, at the mouth of the river and the rocks are marked on the map cottage, it is – the truth, in an uninhabited state. The hut arranged, instead of laying out the stove collapsed from senility oven, bath, but the roof of the “on-black”; burnt, and the couple did not work, but all the same! They ran and jumped into the surf. I, however, have a swim in the Barents, even in Kekurskoy bay, but now it was different. Then I ran and took off like a scalded cat, 9 degrees. nevertheless, and now even a little splash. Its temperature and the truth is not high, 14. And all the same! Place obzhili specifically: table, chairs, smoke, all our beach, with all the fish and firewood. Eggs and pancakes went well, just to envy, that’s just the weather almost blundered at the end of the day, and even dozhdanulo. But the sea has always been a uniquely beautiful. Today from Tucek is painted in indigo with a light golden stripe at the horizon to its full width. 3 m festive fire was burning, sparks tossed, surf roared. How nice for him to sleep “.

Today, a week of camp life.

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he lip Chagodaevka

August 9th

Arbuzov wrote:

“I sit in the Wide Bay is 5 km from Chegodaevki. Gone is just 5 km away, even before we Kharlovka can not walk!

Weather in the morning trash. Up to 12 small pouring rain. Shustrov again prosobiralsya more than an hour and left late. With Irene they continually fall behind, I always have to wait for them. It happened at this time, for up to 2 km wide, before descending into it. Go hot, sweat, got wet in the wind and cold at once. I waited 30 minutes and ohrenel, became angry dog. He explained descent and went on. Irina soon came, and Dima not. And now the time 21.00 pm, it took almost 4h since parting, and he did not come!

Get into a fuss, I did not notice that my leg wrappings burned by the fire, which we have worked up in anticipation, burned a pot put on coal for tea, lost grip in the rocks. No words Irina went to look for Dima. I am the fire, signals, spread 2 flames, higher and lower. Coast can at any moment to close the fog. Rain may come, but we do not have a tent with Ira, she’s Shustrova.
Wide Lip

While Ira was walking, I made a fire in the form of a rectangle in place overnight, then when she came back with nothing, we piled on the sides of the log, dial the low tide on the deck boards and a separate pile of long on the roof. The result was a cave structure with low entrance and a heated floor. From wind fenced off plastic boxes. It began to rain, we climbed to the roof cornice, it was even hot, just in case the next placed a mug of water. Sleeping in the morning a little podmok, but slept very well, like a sauna. ”

I was looking for Shustrova to 23.00, almost reached our last stop and hung a note on the pole. I went back and what was my surprise when I saw her again a note! Circle made, went on the old line poles. Perhaps and Dima so I lost.

10th of August

Shustrov morning appeared. The commander went to look for him, and went along the coast almost to Chegodaevki. At 12:00 Dima made contact, he said, was lost.

From the diary of Arbuzov:

“I explained – Return to the posts, go north to the sea Meeting place -.. Top of triangulation He came at 6 am During this time blew gusty wind 5m / s with the rain, tore to shreds, I wildly was freezing and even down to the coast. for fuel and floats, if only on the ground to sit. I saved found at low tide Chegodaevki mounting cap, even in her head froze. in an attempt to warm up, I walked around the top, welling mindless circles. Finally he came, but without the backpack, which left . to save power Backpack found with difficulty, by the night Dima was lucky that he had a relationship, and the mountains are not closed mist He made all the possible mistakes:.. did not return to the point where the split, did not stay in it, etc. . ”

The story of the quest was over by 20.00. Dima after fasting, sleepless cold nights and walks could not go further. We went to the unexpected discovery of rock shelter on the other side of the stream where there was no such piercing wind, and stayed there. And I spent a whole day burned a bonfire on the shore of the bay, the wind, staring into the distance as Yaroslavna, and guessed leave behind a hill in a quiet place. But there I would not have seen the returning children. How fortunate that we are together again! In Arbuzov energy nemeryannom, and photographs, and blog writing, and the route followed, it sets the pace. One word, a professional!
Comrade Arbuzov retired

11, 12 August

Kharlovka. In the morning, a great calm weather. We first stripped down to T-shirts.

Until the dead Kharlovka reached in an hour. Abandoned stone house, hostel, ATVs. Inhospitable camp guard of foreign agrees to carry us across the river. In the conversation it turns out that he is a former poacher, and now protects the salmon … Went with Arbuzov in Camp 6 km, met with the deputy. gene. Director of “Northern Rivers” Kulagin Vladimir Ivanovich. He was very upset with some case 10 years ago, when he fed and hello to tourists, as they are instead of gratitude postebatsya over it in the internet. Now it does not help anyone, we were not even offered tea, however, gave the bread, butter, 1 can of canned fish, 1 can of corned beef and a chocolate bar. And this despite the euro-camp level for foreigners, in the dining room table was set for dinner for the banquet. (Here, we learned that the war with Georgia. Dim began to dream that he would go to a reporter when he returns from the campaign. In the next camp, we were reassured that the war was over.)

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R. Kharlovka

On the way back, stopping by defense point on the hill. Below, the river, traces of either a mini-mazes, or illusion. Rocks unusual, fantastic. By 23h left on the route. We decided to try to go at night, the benefit of still daylight.

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Abandoned Air Defense Kharlovka

In the vicinity of Cape Red rugged terrain, it is difficult to walk. Bypassing closer to .138 – great waterfalls and groves.

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Minimized landscapes create the visual illusion of high mountains, great distances. Met sunrise – so beautiful! It is very dim, you can watch the sea change color on the eyes, and the water in the river of molten gold!

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After crossing the Red Cape, we get up at night on the coast. Before the mouth of the river we go Voyatki refuse, on the banks of the waterfall Shustrov falls and immediately falls asleep and restless Arbuzov still driving forward. “Time for the installation of tents, food concoction – he shouts, – collection of backpacks in the end the whole campaign is not measured by the clock – the clock is why it is necessary to walk long distances, and then a long rest and to recover!” But we can not and require an overnight stay on a schedule not later than 23.00. Arbuzov frantic, but I have to give us a breather. He soon we will have a heart attack from.

We went to bed at 5:00, stood at 11.00. Solar – to delight waves play, sea blue, blue. Only the wind was too gusty, cirrus clouds – of course, bad weather threatens.

The borough of. Pitcher – house. On the line is not visible pillars of a house, is located near the coast, at low tide, the rocks. Quiet place. We returned to the pot instead of smoked up. Next house – at the mouth of Voyatki, where the road is rocky at first, purged from all sides area and then on flat, too icy headwaters. Shustrov ill after walk, but well done, keeps – temperature and goes. Upper swept rain with wind, trudged to the house, down dale, again lagged behind, wet dreaming about drying in the oven. Lodge not long ago collapsed, though well logs and boards are not entirely rotted away, could start a fire. And then around some bushes, groves and birch trees only.

On Voyatke great waterfalls. Arbuzov and went right under one of them has caught trout. Lures caught, he had to go into the water. Shustrov he came, lay down in a tent to recover. Punctuated his pills, fed hot soup. Wow, how quickly the weather changed from sunny to stormy perfect. Tomorrow – East Face.

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August 13th

Yesterday – rain today – great weather. In Fedotovka Bay near Cape Dashing Buttermilk (rock) swim. There lying on the stage of the rocket, the material is titanium, all the parts with a variety of markings and a sign of quality, down to the smallest. The borough of. Mahalny headwaters cease to be gentle, there are rocks.

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Abandoned stage. Guba Fedotovka

Do not short on. Egg ravine-rock take on the character and so on until the Eastern Litsa. Output to Face stunning – a deep gorge, rushing water, in the middle of the river – a rocky island. We go around the mountain, down to the river and walk along it up, jumping over rocks. At the mouth of Litsa to be camp, but we did not find it, it’s too late, get up beside rolling on shore. Fatigue accumulates, the transition was a tough, stones and rose at the end of the rope on the vertical wall of 5 meters with backpacks and without insurance, a nightmare. Those deep, where people boat? Arbuzov tireless as always, it would be as much again passed. What are 5 meters? – Yells he through the wall in a trice jumped. He said that tomorrow will have to cross the river with backpacks. I’m going to put to swim higher and downstream to catch, not even imagine: I’m scared. I do not want to have dinner, to climb into a warm sleeping bag, can be the last time in his life. The guys are laughing around the campfire, Shustrov clearly recovered, looking slyly, like a watermelon.

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The road to the East Face

August 14th

We have not reached people quite a bit, they were the same for the next turn. And we have moved on a boat, fed royal dinner (we ate everything that was on the table, soup, sandwiches, condensed milk, fruit, forces did not have enough to eat up the jam). Ask what products are needed, we have called the most necessary, but we collected a huge bag with all sorts of delicacies. Then we have another hour talking with a guide and his wife, the cook of the camp. That’s a good job for couples!

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East Face

C 3 am pouring hours, heavy rain, and after 12 the sun came out, clouds swirled. By 4 pm the wind rose, which is wildly howling and deafening. From Litsa V. Now we climbed along the lake and cross to reach 20.00, finally the Gulf with a waterfall (Polyutiha lip), staying in a dilapidated hut signalers. By the time the weather turned bad, zakrapalo, the wind increased. The commander decided to go to the mouth of Litsa, but not in the camp, and in the abandoned frontier, as is likely in these places it is no longer hit, hurt and will miss something interesting.

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Abandoned pogranchast

In his diary he wrote: “I have not regretted: climbing mountains, going with only a small rise, and secondly – the very gate, ground, tower and all plates with inscriptions -.” Boundary zone. Presenting pass. Tee “The road back has fallen under the night here pograntsy Poles drank it on the wood, and had to be guided by telegraph wires or bricklaying -. Nawal round stones I walked down the wires on a guiding thread, without distinguishing long way, from the masonry to masonry..

The wind increased to 9-10 m / s and is now brought down to the ground, I went against him and froze. Returned in 0000, I had covered 8 km. ”

August 15

Daylight lip Sidorovka failed. The weather was again not much, went out as usual, late. At the mortuary stream sun peeps. Fishing, excellent trout. Creek rocky, steep ascent with him. And on the face ply patrols, do not give a catch. In the district of the city of White captured the evening on Sidorovka obviously will not fall, went to the coast to the hut marked on the map. It turns out there is a house, however, abandoned. It stands on the edge of a cliff, 15 meters from the edge.

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District Cape Butorin

Winds from all directions. The house has a Dutch oven, but the plaster disappeared, the furnace failed, only the roof more or less kept. Once again, I am amazed how quickly children can inhabit any hovel. Clean and flooded the stove, empty windows closed shields, lay the board on the bench. They never lost! On the table, the inscription “Lenin, tanya, 1942”. There were many other buildings, a prominent Dutch house, with outstanding chimneys and 4 windows on all sides of the world. Observation post! Kind of funky on the coast, the edges of the capes, huge expanse of water. On the cliff is visible at the bottom of a rocky promontory, lurking like a crab. Before the night and clean trout fry. Eat sneakers, presented on the face, and oranges. Rain.

August 16th

When the sun rose, watermelon sometimes woke photographed. But most say wake up when breakfast is ready and backpacks collected such that we do not wait. But still they came out late. Left the Dutch house, so remarkable. There is still a circle full of deer trails. No special stones or swampy marshes, but there are some places where you fail the knee. I especially hard down on the rocks, jump with a backpack, I’m afraid, and step well as the guys – I can not, swollen and sore leg in the foot area. If the sun, go have fun, and not – fog, wind, rain – the trail will not help. The camera basically goes in a backpack, then drizzle, then do not have time to take on the road, only halts. Komarov and there is no way, however, and berries – there was no heat. Road to the White Sidorovka from the city as a whole is replete with rugged terrain, lifts. Descent rocky, rocky, river bite the real mountains. The bay itself is compressed by them, as if in a vise. In the mouth there was a house, 2 bunk bed. Oh, how nice it is, when the communication line along which we go, still worked!

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August 17th

We will not go – went on strike. Arbuzov creaking agreed. Sunny. The commander did not remained sitting on the ebb and walked in the direction of Cape Sidorov, kicked in the rocks mussels, which we then, after throwing in the fire on the hot sheet metal, like eating sunflower seeds. Tasty, but very small, not naeshsya.
Bay Sidorovka

Salmon is not caught, Arbuzov spent 3 hours on the river, to no avail. Fish with the tide came, played, but did not take. But I managed to find in the river trolling! Dima was able to fix the stove in the old schelyastoy bath and kindle it. Stoked all day, so the wall heated up, is already extinguished bath night burned. And is night was cold.

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Bay Sidorovka

August 18th

We climbed from the bay to the mountains, the road led along the sloping tops. We see a lot of deer, groups and individually. Singles are on almost every hill, visible from afar only dash of hooves and horns. Stand and do not move, they have nowhere to hurry. They are in their own world. Until his lips road The yard is not difficult, the same trails. In some places, autumn has changed the colors, add red. Night darker. Shifted to the south – have appeared on the hollow bushes.

We got to the creek, our Promyslovik Arbuzov went fishing and inspection The yard lips. From his diary:

“On a promontory seen some perstoobraznye rocks, go out there, and with each step get excited: deer, foxes, eagles … Kites, so close that I can see their pupils, hear the noise, which they cut through the air above his head. every now and then eagles fighting, playing at the height excrete pirouettes, and watch as they wind the following, very attractive. A rock … Saber-toothed peaks, cliffs, vertical walls, in the deep recesses of which froze stone statues of cats. I went through all the canyons, spree before dark, terribly tired come back to a hot cup of tea and pasta with boletus gathered on the slope near my friends. The day was perfect. ”

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Bay Sidorovka

The sun flashes, cloudy. To persuade the commander, down to the bay, decided to explore the rocks. Gone to them ebb, climb around, stared at the bird colonies.

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The Bay The yard

August 19

Seagulls scream the truth at times as people. Echo steep rocks enhances the effect. Rocks, these plaintive cries, eerie gorge and the sea around the stern. There at the bottom of the raging elements, and here, at the height, on the edge of sweet grass is green. We walked round the Cape, and then it was very picturesque, the whole day wandering. Diamond as a piece of cake, toe with vertical cutting edges. Cobblestones on the “wheels” – small pebbles, as if someone specifically set. Rose cold westerly wind, in the evening returned to the camp.

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August 20th

Wind gusts in the morning began to bend tent rustled biting drops. Bad weather severely, Arbuzov slept until dinner, Dima was soaked and cold, preparing breakfast (it was his duty). On top of chilled air, blows at the moment. By the afternoon was quiet, the mountains covered dense fog. Yesterday, the commander lit the pile of garbage on the coast – wood plastic mixed with fine to do, and the fire spread to the front of a hundred meters. It turned out, as in a movie about the war – Beach burns and smoke embers. On a hot iron barrel staged an excellent dryer for clothes. Probably only in Russia can afford it: the fire burned the entire length of the beach. At high tide Arbuzov found and gave me a blue plastic cup, in memory of Kola.

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August 21

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On the transition to Varzim met wolverines 3 (with one rounded stone Arbuzov ran nose to nose).

There is no sun, but warm. He flashed jamb ducks – it is to fall. Around aspen. Yesterday we Shustrova went into the next bay and dragged 2 bags of mushrooms. First, I collected everything, then left on the bank of the stream and began to select only the small and beautiful. We now even semolina porridge with boletus. Shustrov regretted leave extra mushrooms, took with him (then quietly thrown on the road, mushrooms sea about them stumble). On the one lip, a village there … looked out the sun. On the small beach near the swim Varzim. Mimo is a boat, the motor sounds. Well, I think people are somewhere close behind the hill. Certainly not! I had to stomp aliens camp 2 km upstream, thought – through the mountain, but then came at low tide, while drinking tea, the water receded from the rocks. There we Shouted and we moved across the river, which is now (weak tides) poor passable. They greeted us very hospitably shower room, dining room, food bag. Rabadan, a resident of Severomorsk, was our guide through the camp and told me about the neighborhood. Heat saying goodbye to staff and visitors, we hurried back to the mouth, where could be seen a large white tent. Waiting for the tide soon, we are in a hurry – nearing the night and the prospect of climbing in the rocks blindly, avoiding the sea line, nobody liked. As a result, the commander Dima safely slipped and ran into the tent to warm and light the stove, and I did not have time and enough naplavatsya at high tide. Arbuzov, of course, shouting, come quickly, but it was how it was with a backpack, I run on the tide can not. Across the way all the time across the rocky edges, which I declined. Yes, and I did not expect that the tide goes so fast. When it started getting dark, and I was about to climb on the rocks and a fire, appeared in front of a white strip of sandy beach.

The tent was a great oven-stove, which is very well-lit plastic floats from the shore and from the pipe poured black-black smoke. The roof, however, proceeded a little, but it’s stuff.

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August 22

Come on Varzinskie mazes. This spiral, lined with stones near the rock “Gulf”, in which the wind can not penetrate and which can accommodate a dozen launches. Great place for fishermen, travelers! Comes over here, for example, in the summer, with the children. Maybe labyrinths – is something like a children’s schitalochek classics, allowing something to occupy the kids frolicking? For places of worship usually choose larger rocks and boulders are common with a bridge.
The Bay The yard

We go back to the sandy terrace, lunch and bring down in Drozdovka, going just 3 km away in a straight line. In the tundra sea mushrooms, the weather of the sun passes in a haze, fog hide hill. Abandoned Drozdovka peeps crown border towers, there are many abandoned houses, yet strong, and higher on the hill – broken-down military unit.

In the evening haze turns gray, heat rises and immediately blows cold. We struck again, as sometimes rapidly changing air temperature – 20-30 minutes. Rest of the day committed to careful examination Drozdovka. At night, located in the house above the bay, with oven-stove, which we fry pancakes and mushrooms, and a stray Arbuzov checks Explosive found vials. In the house next door have found a whole box of army bread, packaged in cellophane double, they took with them as they could carry. The bread a bit stale, but it is edible – his year! Another found jars of canned potatoes, carrots and beets. Disgusting as soon as our soldiers eat it.

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August 23

Dense fog, visibility 100 meters examine everything that did not have time yesterday. By evening, scattered, and at 17:00 we leave. From the military part of the road leads. Going by her commander blown off course, and ran to the lake. I had to go back, now lost. In Drozdovka estuary arrived late – the same fog around. Penetrating a little up the river, we reached the camp – a child the day before, where we joyfully met Eugene and Sasha had just conducted a group of tourists and a helicopter waiting to take camping gear. They thought that their group returned. Guys generously presented us specialties – cheese, coffee, apples, raspberry jam. And I hid Thrifty all donated to the tent. Then Arbuzov all night rustling bag with oranges and call me a hamster.

Weather repulsive – darkness, cold, rain from time to time. Come sad thoughts about the imminent demise of the summer, that we can not make it and plunge into the winter. We must hurry. And I have a swollen leg, ligament can not withstand the load and jumping at Qurum. Aching for a long time, especially in the early afternoon, then variance. Compression and grinding does not save, well helps tug elastic bandage, but step on the injured leg carefully, can fail. Apparently, it is necessary to interrupt a campaign, not to delay group. Arbuzov today only asked what wrong with me. Reaching the Gremikha, but we’ll see.

24 August

Tundra Is Red eyes. Flying migratory birds – Yesterday saw the first joint. Brodiruem Drozdovka above Lake Drozdov – Yavr (lake). Weather is still the same – disgusting, good visibility is there, but just in case Dim scored in the GPS point ahead. In Drozdovka he bummed a winter jacket – and in time, with the fog something very cold these days. And I found a good boots and left her full of holes. Black got to the mouth of the river without incident, went from 14 to 19. In the mouth of the birch woods, like dancing the dance of St. Vitus. Generally, the trees are common, but I think it’s because of the Ivanovo Peninsula, protect the coast from the northern cold. Black – a beautiful river, rough, easily perehodimaya in the mouth even at high water; Water bitter taste. river we go now, without hesitation.

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Trying to cross the bay on the Ivanovo mysochkah not succeed – a major drain. I had to get to the bay strong ridge to the east and to move there. Bay great – stones, sand in some places, prowling flounder. Lesok everywhere, small rolling pin. Upstairs, on the peninsula of Ivanovo guys poorat the entire bay good mate. Where else pooresh full Ivanovo?

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Guba Ivanovo

That flashed the sun, it has a drizzle. Outputs to the coast again covered in mist from the grove was gone. Nameless Cove is severe – no wood here, the rain soaks completely. In an attempt to find something for comfortable drying, follow along the pillars. I fell behind. Apparently, now will not be able to get to his lips Savihi. They went out at 10 am is now 20:00. Before Savihi is 7 kilometers, not in time before dark. It is necessary to solve the problem, and it is urgent. You need a big fire. On the map the stream flowing out of lakes, flows into the sea in a place more or less wide throughout the rest of the entire route to Savihi. We get down there. Climb the rocky coast, the commander of difficulty is the only place with firewood. The strip of wood – 30 meters, a lot of them, a little higher – a great place for a tent, rocks hide from the wind. In the morning Arbuzov also torn boots – just came off a bootleg. And in the afternoon, he noticed that somewhere left his winter gloves. Apparently, they needed more tundra.

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August, 26th

Successfully chosen commander lodging place among the rocks safely ukrylo us from the elements – wind and drizzling rain, the waves rolled towards the sea. We rise from the shore, and I see the horizon ahead is viewed up to a depth, while the cape behind barely visible in the fog. Indeed, the climate impact – from Gremikha to Kharlovka he subarctic and, apparently, for the Holy Nose today the sun is shining and the day is excellent. We are, however, also carries – to 12 somehow a little cleared up, the clouds bright spot lets you know about the sun itself. The road to Savihi from the accommodation space suddenly appeared in the form of Kurume – no, yesterday, we would not have survived. Maybe it would Arbuzov and doprygat, but I do not. The rocks took the cup, after the rest of the waterfall. Specifically, a fragment of the ancient bed of the stream once existed. The movements of the crust destroyed the flow and put forward some of his bed to the sea, in the space where the flow can not be. It was not, and that’s a piece of blue sky. We noticed that the weather is changing to 11-12 hours of the day. At this time, the rain that poured down all night, stops, goes mist begin any changes. The sun flashed and disappeared again the mist, and so all the way. Only in the evening cleared up at some appreciable extent. A couple of kilometers before the bay – a major creek on the left of it a lake. The bay itself – beautiful and harsh, as if cast from shore or red lead metal. The place to find lodging in the rocks near the high wall. Evening. Fry ceps. Arbuzov Dima climbed higher, viewing area, there Osinki ring leaves, meadowsweet blossoms. And after them – the picturesque hills, islands with lakes in between. For a long time sitting around the campfire, we relished given us coffee. 6 kilometers to go Savihi 4 hours – such a road.

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Bay Saviha

August 27th

Cabin Saviha marked on the map, is long gone. We pass the house, located in a picturesque place (if it was still intact, we would not have gone out so easy). We climb the slope, which seems steep. In fact, hideous slopes are easily preodolevaemy – visual illusion, concealing the distance everywhere. We go down to the river. Arbuzov Fears that river Saviha ford impassable, are not justified. And it would have to circumvent Lake Saviha, rather large, on rocky terrain, have lost a day. River perehodima, even soaking boots, ie, less than a foot. Water lot, but large rocks that had fallen from the surrounding rocks and lathed flow – this is an excellent stage. We cross the river and go back up the hill. Above the fog covers the visibility to 50 meters. The guys leave backpacks and me and go to explore the Cape Klyatny. There is indicated chalet and is an abandoned lighthouse.

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From the diary of AD:

“The road, unlike yesterday, lightweight. Stones are much less than we met yesterday. On the headland was a house, and not one. Wooden stairs lead to the beach and back. On potholes dripping, shop stood on a slope, where water gained. habitable, picturesque corner, a hidden safe from the weather, fall in love at first sight, with sea views, an observation deck higher. I was struck again, as the coast was habitable and fifty years ago. It could go without food, tents and cards There always were people, fish, deer -… paradise Arctic Indeed, while Russia fared better than the entire world in such a multinational and large areas of the country have been thought even the little things, paved roads and built huts this is when you need to. it was to come here! It was a golden time of the edges. ”

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And I’m not to miss and do not get cold, try naschepat ax splinters from the wreckage of a telegraph pole and inflate in a rocky niche small campfire. A few hours pass unnoticed.

Aside Gremikha pass 6 kilometers and stand up for the night among the rocks, where there were wood. Find a good place – half overnight case, then our commander has no equal. Koster zhzhem in the hollow rocks, the walls are heated on all sides, on all sides by heat. For turning the tent just above the recess in the rock – water. The fog subsides, warming, festive lights visible port Gremikha.

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Caught a fish

28, August 29

The last kilometers to go on the Gremikha pink stone path that reminded me of the yellow brick road that leads to the Emerald City. But island greeted us with a mirage of white houses in the rays of the setting sun. On closer inspection, the white houses were abandoned dilapidated five-story building with black windows of the failures of the dead. Suddenly calm reigned. Old trodden path, overcoming numerous hills and slopes, put on the road. The CATF settled in the 4-floor dormitory type accommodation, where only 1 person living apart from us. The first passerby advised to immediately register with the police, which we did. air t outdoors 5.

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Alas! Hope soon to go to the Holy Nose was not justified. While the boys agreed about the boat, the weather turned bad so fast, the wind got up and began to whip the waves.

I had to finish the journey, the last kilometers of the rocks I barely crawled. Compression and pulling did not help, hope that everything will somehow be held, it was not justified. The other possible route normally go (I went to the “Claudia Yelanskaya”) will not be to the end, and because the winter is coming. Of course, it was sad, I was sure miss all the fun, but trying to save face. The guys took my favorite folding knife with which I had never parted, and gave extra weight up to Dimkinyh hours.

Everything written on – from the diary Arbuzov. I still pass its second half hike, a guide, I already have.

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September 1

Finally emerged. They left the CATF, which looked from a distance like a white rock band. A whole street of five-storey buildings, with kindergarten, abandoned theater. Of the 30,000 inhabitants left 3,000 berths are empty, there are about 10, and only a couple of ships. Gingerbread Andrew dovozit Iokanga us up the river, on the banks of which once stood the village. And here there is a road to the lighthouse Gorodetsky. Buhtovki pass to the river and throw things, we still strive to get to Cape Saint Nose. And it breached the road! Weather in the morning nothing, but by mid-day the dark clouds, the wind in the face of Icy (15-18m / s), which is at an altitude of just suffering was experienced. The arrival of each cloud we expected with a shudder. Here it goes … Suddenly the wind gaining strength, ranting and raving, hail slap in the face – it is impossible to look ahead. But we go hard, hands numb. We pass several abandoned military units.

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After going 10 km against the wind, we dwell in the farthest hangar. Wind howls scary korezhit metal. Armature crunches, fire breed on the concrete floor. In the darkness we find rusty bed, have them on the fire heated concrete, pre-brushing embers. Sleeping left zabroske, relying on the case. (Yes, well, that Irene is no longer with us, I wish it went …) The temperature in the hangar in the street, but without the wind. I did not dare to sail such a move on with the rain, not knowing the road ahead of time – 21.00. Yesterday, the Island was two, and the wind had these days in some places obledenit hills. Smoke hangs in the hangar, could not breathe. Well, take a jar of stew, just in case, well, as usual rescued mugs, tea boiled in them on the coals. Now I understand why the people of the North have tea with fat, this is the best means of warming.

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September 2

Holodina continues. We wake up at 5 am. The wind changed direction and is now blowing in the hangar, impossible to sleep. A fire between us and the yield, fell asleep again. At night, the wind rattled the iron, like an evil spirit, howling all the stronger. You go for water – water blows from a mug!

Came back later, the wind continues to groan, hit by charges of rain. Towards more hangars, supports for missiles … Nightmare, how many were here, the Holy Nose was habitable, as the city. Here’s an abandoned military part of the way. Then one can see some pillboxes, bunkers, gun, rummaged all tunnels. Yes this is the line of defense! Guns menacing look to the west. I am the last effort, tsepeneya cold, photograph shell into the chamber. So tired of hiding photo equipment from the drizzle! We pass the gun, ahead of the big house. And suddenly – people, warriors, sailors. Commander Eugene originally from Lipetsk. Hot tea and warm, we gain strength. Yesterday could catch up to the house an hour before dark, 5 km. However, on the way were the lowlands, we ventured to stay in the bare tundra without wood, the wind and rain. Quickly thawed and went to explore the lighthouse, before it is 2 km from the part. The road runs down a steep descent from the piles of rusting machinery. That lighthouse.

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Now he runs a solar-powered, no people here. Darkly sereyut chopped Pomeranian hut with the words of former times. Abandoned boiler house and plundered defense point. Oh, did not keep Russian defense … I always remember rusty pen with the inscription “Tovs!” and one round in the chamber.

Wind and rain relentless, back to the sailors, to heat and light. We have supper, drink alcohol on the throat. We sit, socialize, but I have a headache from idle talk. Jack does not even know where is that – on the defensive line for 5 years of service did not come. And this month we managed to see as much as others can not see in a lifetime.

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September 3

On the way back to backpacks blew the same wind, but it was warm and the sun flashed. At sea, storm, waves, like excision metal surface. Yes, here are the wind and regular people to them calmly. Should this occur in Moscow, it would be a disaster. The road along the cape broken until the end of it. Today we begin a path that had to go 6 days ago – when it was the weather, and we could easily ride.

Before backpacks first went, 4 km Eugene drove us in the Urals, reconstructed by him.

Then 12 km on foot, force was not affecting the fight against the cold. 4 km crawled to backpacks. Unleashing his, I found it a lemming. Holes not, and how to pick? The loss of strength was decided to cook porridge with stewed meat donated by Eugene and after 1.5 hours we literally ran. Dimming already in the White Sea. Noticing some buildings on the Cow cape came down to him and stunned. What wonderful rocks!

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Bad weather descended, calm, sunset, starry sky! That tomorrow will surely be the sun! But in less than a couple of hours, as the tent start evert. Trying to light a fire, we spent an hour and a half: the wind rushed in a spiral and even put out the embers. Only thanks to an intuitive stuck on the way a piece of rubber fire turned. As someone who is specially put out the fire (burned all the bark and the lighter 2 for 1 night). And when the fire flared, charcoal lace and disperse in all directions. For 10 to 30 times the wind changes direction, sometimes to the opposite! What is the reason? The rugged terrain? Tent reinforced with logs, stones, as if not to fly.

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4 September

Yeah, wait for the weather! In the morning as the rain slapped with the wind, good for a while. We woke up and quickly dumped into the bay. What’s the fire, hastily pohvatali things, if only the rain began. The wind pushes and pushes. Lost peg, and did not find him. And in the bay out to the ruined house – he is somewhere 10×15 m !!! It is necessary, in each corner something was yes. They throw things, and went to look any beauty Primechenie yesterday. View of the Holy Nose terrific – a rocky wall, stretches far into the sea.

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Cow Bay sandy cape, decorated with fantastic red rocks. In several streams flow into the bay, they are 3 waterfalls and tower-like buttes. I ran, I did not notice as the day came to an end. Winter is coming, in front of 300 kilometers, and we allow ourselves that luxury. The sun came out just to sunset and shone for about 30 minutes – and all can be attributed to the solar day. Running on both sides of the bay, I marveled at the negative walls, seals, Nezha on the stones crumbled and frosts, chopped until hot rubble. It is necessary, in tsivilone slides afraid, but here rushing over the rocks like a deer. Sun jumped into a cloud and rain dunked. Cover with things from getting wet, and our friend the wind was right there, I pulled all the 3 capes. Again, I am angry, but then resorted Dima lost peg, for a moment found what we were looking for two 30 min. “I just asked: birch trees, give a peg, please – smiling my friend – and they have given.” This episode suddenly reassured me. So, it’s necessary, just the weather. We are just at a party.

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September 5

Unruly south wind brought warm, suddenly fluttered moths. Dima night saw the northern lights. But, despite another starry sky so clear and an omen of good weather, I did not expect too much in the sun. In the morning the sun came out all the same 30 minutes, but while I chased the bear, who slipped away in the hills, has disappeared. But then suddenly the Azure bands merged, and dramatically cleared day was sunny! The reason – a change in the weather or in fact – an end to the subarctic climate, extending to Gremikha, I do not know.

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We are selected top beauty! Tundra is completely open, go through it easily. Even forgot about the road that suddenly turned up at his feet by 8 km. In all this distance, firewood, poles apart, not the day before yesterday so our decision to go down to rising above the lodge on a cow cape was the only right one. Imagine how we would have struggled with the wind, if it remained on the tundra – gusts probably would have broken arc tent. The wind from the bay we just will not let go. Dima threw on his case from the tent canvas jacket, but the wind still tore the cover and blew it straight into the fire. Caught on the collection of tents, we found only charred lock and peg. Well, just enchanted place!

After 8 kilometers of the road passed on swampland. Stones smaller, tundra and water more. Going on telegraph poles can not go on, we shall stick to the coast. Sun fries in full, as many flies, midges. Well, the mosquitoes, of course, appeared. Les grew up here, he already looks impressive. River Kashkarakka similar to the mid-latitudes of the river. On the way I look – a bear. Thick milf bridge of the nose with ax size skipping runs on me. I ohrenel how yelled obscenities good! Fifteen meters bear braked, he got up on their feet and jumped to the other side! I only saw her huge ass. Bear with grunting behind her. A little earlier Dima met with a deer, he saw and just sat still. The beast approached by four meters, Dima looked him in the eye. I saw – this picture! Sitting pilgrim with a stick beside deer nostrils – catches a scent. Dima saw even the hairs on his horns, and was delighted. After the river went to the lake, dozens of swans on them. I have not seen much yet. Before the ford at West Bay – home. Overnight in a warm oven. To lodge out in the dark, how to order.

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6 September

Surprises every day. Yesterday, bear, salmon today. I just went down to the river Western and suddenly grabbed the tail. Something has to go further once got sick. I went for a walk along the estuary. There’s a great waterfall on the map. Maybe even meet the bear. Before the mouth of only 1 km, I went – the forest wonderful. Trees curves, but the big juniper undergrowth.
Better yet, the waterfall at the mouth, with a wide, powerful discharge.

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I got up from the estuary to the north and opened Lumbovsky Gulf. Seals splashing like a fish. On bad weather, that was three days ago, there is no question. Innocently fluttering insects. Fish has caught a couple forelin. Happy nakrapal rain, and I did not pay attention. The heat was 18 degrees Belatedly this year summer, something which leaves the river turned brown. He returned only in the evening.

September 7

It was rocky, was bushy. The sun warms almost the whole day in the sky. The whole of August did not get out of the jackets, the time when it was windy, even slept in it. But Mike is not reached, I was in a windbreaker: September still felt. West River, in the house where we spent the night, in the place of the ford just above the knee, just below the waist. Stones almost no bottom – pebbles. Next the river, Black, and was generally swampy above the waterfall, too deep for most “something”. But from the waterfall to the sea – Canyon stretches for kilometers, breaks walls up to 50 meters from the shore and is issued by vertical cliffs. Of course, I went and looked. Sam falls and, in fact, a boiling pot – jet hits the wall and there is frantic to find a solution.

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8 September

On the day of the Black went on an excellent road with the sun. Just before Lumbovka little swamps. On the river we stood, waiting for the ferry. KRAZ first arrived and asked from the other side, so that anyone, not moved. Then came all-terrain vehicle, cross the river, the people went out and the first thing to check documents.

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Print CATF “Island” – here as a passport with Moscow registration. ATV went into the forest, soon to be promised. Two hours later, all night and arrived late in the morning.
Are: “Sorry guys, we checked the border.” But sheltered. On the afternoon the rain poured down and the evening, 4-5 hours. During this time we ate pancakes, otmylis etc. Bypassed portion of the perimeter, even the parade ground there, strange, abandoned air defense. Military from different places: Severomorsk, Arhangelska.Pechat CATF “Island” – here as a passport with Moscow registration. ATV went into the forest, soon to be promised. Two hours later, all night and arrived late in the morning.

9th of September

At high tide, and by order of zamkoma Andrew went by boat to the mouth of Gerbils. Wes Gera – an excellent man who understands, gave us falshfeer. On the night we stood in Kung Gerbils, privolochennom military for fishings. Since his kung, then he was literally packed products, with a bottle of vodka on the table.
German bread 1987

10 September

The weather was sunny. We crossed the gerbil, water on the knee, and went on an excellent road, local respectfully called “Tank” road. On that day, we had a feast for the whole world. They went out at 9 am, lunch at 11 at 7 kilometers from the hut in Malaya Peschanka, where waited intermittent rain.
Dimka glut oneself!

Following lunch at the lodge Kumzhihe river in the canyon (we went to see the canyon).

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From Kumzhi up in the hill, down to Gorodihe and crossed the canyon, is closer to dusk. Finally, the lighthouse!

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The sun went down, it got cold. For two people the lighthouse, Peter and Veronica.

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The lighthouse was repaired, he lost his charm and looks like a supermarket. We spend the night in the flat, light keeper of life is simple, people do not deliver any vitamins, no fruit, no sweets, no fresh milk. And so over the years, only on a vacation you can normally eat in the city, chocolate can not see at all.

After all Iokanga river perehodimy easy Lumbovka big, but in the mouth for the weak, and at low tide brodiruetsya (above the waist). Lumbovka, gerbil in the estuary mudflats.

Rested at the lighthouse, the sun was no longer, drizzling. I went to the river Gorodetskaya Canyon. At the mouth of the river at low tide like a stream, runs along the sandy beach, rocks sticking out of the ground – it is beautiful. Wood has a place. There are rocky niches where you can escape from the weather. After the storm at low tide a lot of oysters, but they were all filled with sand. Once cooked sea cucumber. Veronica ran in terror into the street. Dali people stew, venison, and they guzzle not know that! From venison cutlets done and devoured with potatoes. Sea coast is rocky and beautiful. From Gorodetsky go exactly coast, away from the marshes.

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11 September

They went to the lighthouse, all day sun in the sky in a light haze, quiet and warm. Wow, September-June and August warmer temperature + (6-18). On the shores of many beautiful rocks, especially in the Bay Chetyrehrogoy. The coastline is indented on Chetyrehrogoy were afternoon at low tide.

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Grass grows on the sandy ridges, the next bay Vilovatoy river truly fabulous. A deep gorge with a waterfall, the sound of the river is reflected from the rocks, and the sun. I was delighted. Lucky that does not go into the mists, the space is open.

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Dima zaplutal for an hour, and to walk Panfilovki did not have time, I had the brakes in the Bay of deer. Firewood is not there, the coast is rocky and steep. Spend the night was cool. Well, it went to the right. From deer to Panfilovki not reached just 3 km away, or rather, 3 km to the hut.

They reached the house destroyed. We go down to the ebb and stopped for the night at the rock in a giant set of the opening. The tide went up from the beach to the very fire, flooding vast beach, the fire stopped at 5 meters. The fire burned in the rocks and slept under a rock like real ancient people. Sorry, there was no sun that day, a beautiful place.

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But on the beach found some large shells, we cooked them and ate up what are delicious and greasy! To go further Panfilovki was impractical, the transition to a hut on Kachkovke – day. And may the sun tomorrow, will take a picture?

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No, it was not there. But still it is warm. We walked along the beach and saw our second cottage, which looked yesterday. The beautiful location is at a height, sticking a pipe in the sea, as I on the opposite side of the bay have not seen? It is necessary, in the same bay 2 hut! Lifting from the bay had already begun when the water came, climbed on the rocks – I wanted to take pictures of the bay with water. Perelezanie took an hour, while low tide on the sand walk 8 minutes. Next to the harbor at the same Kachkovku a ravine-relief character. Marshes are not here, to go still excellent, but in the fog, bad weather … We have to catch the ebb and roosting places with firewood, it’s easy, but … Small Kachkovka and even more today perehodimy easily. From Minor climbed the hill and along the Great to the inflow-stream (4 km from the mouth) got to the hut, which is hardly found. If not prompted Petro, then we would not have found the trail. Thickets, hut hides foliage. Priest opened the door, lit the stove. Immediately ran up the heat, well before what are literate, though, not visible hut! We slept on the floor in the corners of things. For a low door grass, trees, hills and quiet arc. There are no windows, sleeping in the quiet, semi-darkness and dryness, despite the maturation on the floor, the wind blows, does not pull. Go to the hut with Panfilovki took time from 9-18, without lunch.

September 15th

Autumn this year later – the hills are still green, only began to grow brown. This usually occurs 20-25 August. No sun again. At 200 meters from our camp, we get acquainted with the guards of the river, two of Peter Nikolai. They have not noticed. The guys are excellent, word for word – and we were. I was planning on having examined Kachkovku, leave immediately to the Cape Acute Ludka, but when I went for a walk with one of the Nikolaev along the river, I realized that we would not come down. Before Ludki 8 km, for this you first need to go back to the sea, then the bank (direct large areas of bush and marshland), and it’s 12 km. Low tide at 3pm, check the mouth and hard shore tide – rocks and mud on the boots (2 km). Before darkness would clearly not have time. But in general, at the mouth of doing nothing. I’m even a little upset: after we immediately yesterday at low tide, where Kachkovka cross jumping on the knee, and it was not necessary to make a detour. But the hut on the river all worth it! Bay Panfilova a lot more beautiful.

In the mouth Kachkovki noteworthy rock-outlier and the grotto where once spent the night fishermen. The track poachers (military, of course) hammered tubes for poles in the rock – steel hooks. You can imagine what they were doing here with the poor fish. In the grotto of the old jackets, which slept, drank tea. There are rocks and damp here 20 years ago still slept. In today’s world, where the fire to heat the plastic more efficiently, where rubber weight etc. People have forgotten about simple living in nature. They returned to spend the night in our favorite cabin. Suddenly Kachkovku covered dense fog through which perfectly penetrated light of the full moon. Surely the weather will be? Yesterday, the sun flashed a couple of times, now shone until sunset 4 hours.

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16 of September

Yes, the weather! In general, no clouds! But taking pictures is nothing special. As I expected, from the sea shrubs and tussock on the meter! Horror, what is going on deep into the coast. We make a detour – to pass directly. . In general, the nature of the terrain from the Holy Nose has changed a lot – were wide sandy bays and fin weight, and now they were replaced by rocky incisions to the beach, the sand only at low tide, with firewood problem. But the river overflowed, all steel perehodimy at low tide. Even Ponoy and the move from Rusingi. Coast went easier. Running up Ludki acute and stopped next to what was indicated on the map barn. The sun had set no clouds! I am amazed, extreme cold is still there! Shoots the moon, the night becomes as day, I go to fetch water, without lantern jump over the rocks.

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September 17th

In the morning on the street close to 0. fog, visibility up to 50 m. At night it froze a little bit along the ground near the stream, but overall it was warm. Indeed, the weather is not the case, but is born.

In acute Ludke – abandoned radioactive signal post. The generator is still lying.

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From the remains of the hut was excellent hot fire. After ten – or twenty years, and the board eventually rot traveler in these parts will have to solve arising problems on the fly to a greater extent than we do, and even more so than those who went there 30 years ago. Or should we take the primus. Until 1995, all huts still standing! So much for the twenty-first century!

The fog came down to 10 in the morning, and I once again crossed himself, remembering the second hut on Panfilovke: even seeing it, keeping in view, we have not found the right trigger to it among the crevices and rocks. As well, hazy part came in the first half of the route.

The road to Hapaevskoy bay excellent. Only once climbed into the bushes. Army bushes are sometimes 300 meters from the edge of the coast, well we went here, and not along telegrafki. Along the sea at the toe, sometimes indirect broken line stretches series of deer trails. After some discussion, we have called this place Oleninsky prospectus.

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Come on, look – swans fly:

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Exit at Orlovka on flat tundra, almost no rocks and bumps. I look down from the height of the bay … Here it rocks! B. Persons 2! Wrong, not a closer look at the map, there are sandy bays are marked with black dots, and is a powerful incision in the sea shore. We are looking for the house, which is somewhere in the stories are light keeper. In the mouth is not, go to the confluence Lakkueva creek, looking for it, and no again. Sun mercy, shone in the evening, I made a great photo. Where is the cottage? I sit, look around from the height of the shore at low tide. It remains one place – just below the water, where the bust of water on the stones – ford. And there is a slope – and the wooded canopy. I go back to find the trail, and with it the house. 3 hours proiskali. We return, collect things go. And it must be the same mistakes, looking for the house for about 30 minutes, climbing over the rocks and bushes. Can not see anything in the green, I swear and rage. But finally warmed oven. Excellent stove with a tall chimney gave a lot of heat. For a broken window looks autumn.

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September 18th

These colorful places will not leave quickly, stuck again, this time – in the house at Orlovka, the first and last time in my life!

Why go? Yes, think about how the wealth we then begin to enjoy! Who goes today as we are! People are attached to cases constrained by unfounded fears, few people know the world in a way, with all its differences.

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In the morning I went to inspect the waterfall and disappeared. Took spinning, has caught 6 kg of fish caught and salmon caviar, well, let alone go there? Half day walking, the rest was spent on fish. The salmon found worms, is not only the lake but also river fish infected with parasites.

Went for normal, deferred flood Sushina, upriver: birch growing in the house is burning badly. Affects the “need for a minimum” – ahead of time attaching force is smaller than would be required then that is better than 1 time to string up, to descend than to climb continuously through the surrounding bush in search of dry Lesin… Rest of the day dedicated sealing boots 3 hole, pretty decent. Gets knot – and immediately rush around. First stockpiled sealed with glue, and then on top of reinforced plaster. Plaster heated in the fire, so he sat perfectly still. Outskirts of the tide, the sea was formed. As usual, it seemed moon and stars shone: the weather we only at night. What a wonderful stove! Steady long time, a lot of heat. Not smokes due to high pipe.

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September 19th

Morning. In another, deserted, devoid of trees shore Wolverine jumps. Time 6.00, flashing blue sky spots. Sea No Orlovka perehodima less than knee-deep. The water in the rivers has been very little. We climb to the hill, follow further along the coastline. In the area of Anfal, a little further – a gentle descent to the sea and the bridge, which connects with a rocky peninsula. On the bridge ladder and pole on poluostrovke once stood Tonya. What a beautiful place! Before, the Anfal – old Pomeranian cross.

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Next picturesque place – in the canyon, a couple of km away from the first. Here at the mouth of the brook waterfall and rocks – 3 brothers. In both places were lucky – the sun shone! And it appears at the very moment when we were there. Switching from Orlovka Orlovka to the bay without sightseeing stops and takes 8 hours. In the Bay of burnt fire, there is wood, waiting for the tide to the shore to go to vidneyuscheysya Tony. I am enjoying the moment: full circle, I went there, where he graduated last year.

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Seeing the beach and Tonya in the last time, I was amazed and I wanted to come back here … But the beach is so picturesque, appeared only in the area (Gorodetsky, Orlovsky), with the first and last Tonya all the way with D. Zelencov. That’s the irony … Within a year, as I stepped into Tonya again – how the house has changed! 2 years here there were no fishermen, and what do we see? Compared with the previous year – all locks torn garbage around, furnace fumes, food or crumbs. A couple of years, and the end of the hut, and what kind of beautiful.

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September 20th

The timing does not fit. According to the plan of the 20th we had to go, leaving behind Ponoy. We go to the lighthouse, we were met by Sergei Popov, an old friend, stop him. Terek-Orlovsky lighthouse in the process of restoration. It arrange in the same style as the Gorodetsky – props. Not saved any overall architectural style or layout. Sipping a cup of tea, go for a walk along the shore, inspect the abandoned outpost, a weather station. We find a wooden gun carriage from the used fuses from the fire, the old cemetery. Weather station – a two-story “cottage” with Russian stoves, insulated inside and out, and all the cast. Dimensions of the house and its amazing finish – is to the north!

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Sergey Popov!

Yes, I am again convinced someone was advantageous to destroy everything in the country, it was necessary to build anew on which to capitalize. So Western economy to impose on our head. It is amazing how many were built, and on you – people still live here 50 years ago, and even worse. Sorted so far – a hole in the floor, is not on the street. Wildly! In the evening – a bath. So it seems that in the Oryol I come to the bath days.

September 21

Summer! Sunny, 18. All the buzz. After the bath is slowly waking up. I approached the new chief of the lighthouse, tall, Sergei, was the chase us, like, a beacon – a closed object, there is nothing here to sit around.

As already familiar road 8 km to go Rusingi. Sunny all day, but the evening began to play hide and seek. I covered barn roofing felt long been stockpiled in case of rain. Here, the normal band broke up at the lighthouse and all the sly zapustevaet – roofing cast, canned 2005, moldy tea. On the approach to the house stepped on a nail sticking out, see 3. I remembered the board in the last year has seen the nails and wanted to turn the board, but he changed his mind, too lazy, I thought – I-what! Mistaken for caviar, cut bread, smeared with butter donated by the lighthouse. Spawn g 700-800 happened is 1 salmon. We were told that the worms we have seen, are not dangerous, dangerous ones in meat, but they are rare.

On Rusinge trees are no longer curves and decent normal size. These were to Orlovka. Orlovka – the first river with forest on the coast.

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September 22nd

I slept great. Gusty wind burst into the slot and empty windows wave of fresh air, the sky was starry. Deaf roared oven, generously giving the heat and the wind seemed to be a star, a distant galactic expanses.

I woke up at 8 o’clock, the sun, fine. Looked at the map to Kunga on Ponoy – 6 km, we come quickly, and I just have a desire to lose no time and the gift of the sun, explore the area with 3 islands. So I do go down the Rusinge to the mouth, then coast to the Cape. Beautiful tiny green islands, cyclopean military (stacked) construction – sorry, it was not a lantern! coast.

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There have even underground dwellings. The streams meet the Christmas tree on the way back – moose. (Male suspiciously watched, not attacking, but not retreating.) I went sideways, sfotat little family keepsake. Return path shown on the map, leading through the city high hill – so the road! Bushes, swamps, leg ached terribly. Counter south wind continued to emphasize, and I was exhausted to the bone, considering each step is withdrawn pain. A quick meal and went to Kungu approached in the dark. On the road we met another moose, nice to see so many wild beasts. In Kung incensed furnace, and out of the pipe fell mouse. There is already a circle autumn, all the gold!

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23 September

But the heat! And night and day t> +10, forgot his jacket and cap. Leg pain and never went anywhere. All the same, the south wind, but in the afternoon he verse. Even frost no.

Sun cape for Terek-Orlovsky more it is felt. With nocturnal adventures slept until 11, 14. Breakfast only climbed a hill, scored for cranberries jelly fungi yes. Mushrooms postranneli – their development process suddenly stopped and they remained standing in the tundra gradually usyhaya and covered with a brown crust. With a kind not ah, but the shape and volume of saved – this cuts the fungus, but inside it is like a fresh! Miraculously preserved in the fresh air, not even a worm! Here the climate! Apparently, the cold northern winds making them believe that summer is over, and summer – that’s it!

In the afternoon nap, so sweet. We woke up at 19 o’clock. I heated the water and steamed juniper nail pierced his leg. Usually it saves, accelerates the healing process. Another kelp similar in impact ichthyol ointment, relieves swelling.

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River autumn Ponoy

September 24th

Again the heat at night. Slightly krapnulo utrechka, but then dissipated, the sun! Come on, midges winds again, dandelions bloom, tadpoles in pools …

20 km to the gates, the foot hurts. Each step – torment. On make us fed and gathered in the street. Pograntsy repairing outpost style. The plastic decorate the room as an office. And the next year, says Victor Nozdran, heating will change and everything will break ..

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September 25th

In the morning we go to watch the gun. It turns out that such a historic structure disfigured! They took the guns and sawed off the metal. It should be an instrument as an invalid with stumps. The most interesting thing about metal is complete, but it is necessary to collect, and then sawed off, podnapryaglis Razik – there are a ton! That’s how the story disappears.

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Hiking, looked more – in bunker hills, but the collapse of the state. Returned to the outpost, Victor threw us in Lahti through Ponoy. All! Hence, a new part of the route.

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Lahti stayed the night, leg pain. At night, sharply colder, -1. This is the first cold-route. In the evening I walked the rain, and snow was falling on the wrong side of the river. It is necessary, as the climate changes with bends coastline! It has changed dramatically over the St. Nose, and then for the Terek-Orlovsky Cape, now on Ponoy. The evening spent in conversation with Larissa Pavlovna. She says a lot, but many kinder, loves nature, flowers, food residues shall gulls.

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Larisa Pavlovna

September 26th

Indeed, for Pono warmer greens more than touched by autumn foliage. Sunny, we forgot about rainy times, sit down on the hills of berry and sticky on the gentle sun. After 5 km after the start of the way pain in my leg again made itself felt – and I nearly howled.

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Go – a familiar place. Here Tonya on a promontory red. Tuchkov Geese fly, but people are afraid, change the path ahead and sneak up from behind a hill is not allowed. We stop in a bay on the map – “a fishing hut Kuzmina”. Here, after Ponoy often will meet Tony (fishing camps, where people caught salmon from August to the first half of September).

There is a sauna, food, wood, and so on. N. Drown bath! In general, this part of the route is the “easy” due tonyam and flat terrain, the lack of availability of spaces and wetlands deer trails through the bush. Air days can now arrange daily. Compared to the previous part of the way it sounds fantastic. The only possible problem is now – and it’s cold October wind.

September 27

Next Fishing Lodge in the Bay Kisloha. I’m euphoric, wow, my last year’s extreme southern point of the coast!

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The next move proved short-lived, up to the hut “Kuzminskaya news”, there is a whole complex of buildings + bath. Suddenly the wind rises at dusk and I was glad that we did not dare to go another 10 km ahead to the next hut. (We were lucky, village location suggested Sergey Orlovsky in the Terek-lighthouse) By night the wind increases in gusts up to 25-28 m / s, sea storm, spray hitting the windows.

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September 28th

All day in the hut. The wind dies down only in the evening. Cabin light, big. The weather was so strong that I began to count the stocks. But all was quiet, tomorrow is clearly running day.

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September 29th

Days fly by … From the hut Kuz. New items to the next residential course on the river Danilovka turned 5 hours, 10 km. That’s right, that did not dare to jump the day before – up to 2.5 hours of darkness remained, would clearly not have time and were stuck in a storm.

The character of the area has changed: the banks of a small rise, but each is more or less a large tidal creek in the canyon ridiculous that every time we have to crawl. On the way to Danilovka caught the bear. The sun was not today. The hut on the Danilovka with food is not all that well, and I scolded Dimka, that he took the trouble to collect the potatoes in Long Bay, where she was lying right on the beach. Stop in at the house of signalers Pyalka River (double glazed windows, excellent winter home). The place is beautiful: on the banks of the river, around lesochek yellow, yarrow flowers, as if nothing had happened. We heat the oven (where the wood piling on the meter), the house is filled with steam, for a long time it has not been heat thoroughly, and the house is excellent, the best on Ponoy. I still remembered today bear, who then ran, then he stopped and turned around. Beauty!

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House signalers on Pyalke

September 30th

The sun came out briefly, yesterday it absolutely was not. But the heat, even without frost.

Coast neighborhood district. Pyalka – Cape Red Schelya and beyond – is a lot of small rocks at low tide. Miniature-picturesque: the skeletons of ships, the teeth are seen. I’ve been photographed even at home, braked until out – 12.00, go – duck flies! Still alive, torn claws Kite. Predator, we are scared, and he flew away, leaving the prey on which we came across quite by accident (20 m away – and would have passed by).

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A little more – deer! I pose for me.

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A further way passed without sun, on marshy rocky terrain. On the night we stayed for 6 km after Cape Krasnoshchelye. There barn – from the barrel stove, drowning round timber wood of the hut is not out of the question – the gap on all sides. Prior to that we met (after Ponoy) stone oven and great house, but here … even upset! I remember the last overnight stay: excellent beds, mattresses, pillows – bed linen just not enough! Then here you are – the barracks! Maps to the area I have, I can not say exactly where we are. Before we shed more deer, but it somehow jumped into the sea. Right approached the forest – birch trees with yellow and green trees. Weather like nothing, do not say that tomorrow October 1! And so you do not want to rush. On Pyalke I would have lived and day two. According to the Cape Kr.Schelya polazil else – there are many protrude into the edge of the cut, rocky, scenic. We stumbled on a rock – stone “window” … in five-foot cliff! Tomorrow, p. Puddle.

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Since we were lucky duck. The only thing I worry about is that the bird made to suffer and is not immediately turned her head.

Today we went, and I was again struck by the abundance of buildings on the coast: it is necessary, as it is habitable! A couple of kilometers from the mouth of Pyalki was 2-pechechny house, just behind the cape – another. Then, after another 3 km, in a small bay around the waterfall nestled a dozen buildings – a human has come and gone, but the waterfall and buzzing. A couple of kilometers before our hut – dugout in the suburbs, was. E. Each communicator, navigatsionnika was his house. In every profession worker his refuge, and the coast was habitable, as the Moscow region today! But most of all I was struck by the waterfall – that is, an eternity! Not in the inviolability of concrete, plastic, steel, and the eternal movement of water.

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October 1

5km from Kr. Schelya – house before puddles. Here, a grandfather Kostya kindness fed us soup sour elk, well, we poisoned. On puddles forest here is very beautiful.

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Just above the mouth – Tractor ford Sosnovka on the road (to the right of the sea) and the path directly. Puddle reigns: one on her hand tree, combative, collected by other gold birch. Woodlands with juniper bushes. Before Sosnovka from the river – 12 km.

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Rocky terrain, rocky, marshy, animal hides here from vertuhaya and hunters, it barely see. Most rugged terrain. R. Sosnovka storm the tide in the already dark, and here we are in the village. The first house was the one we needed. We were greeted by Ivan Eliseev, the hunter – is to him we were going. And MIGA does not pass, we find ourselves in the warmth, squinting from the electricity, with mugs of hot tea in her hands.

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Ivan Eliseev, Sosnovka

2 October

Sosnowiec Island

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With puddles forest came and went away again to Sosnovka aside. At night, cursing his grandfather Kostya day called home. Chosen later, in 2 hours of the day came out of Sosnovka. The path to the river. Deep along the coast – a rocky bay, bumps or hives, or water. Exhausted scary, but came to the shelter. Housing – a great house near the waterfall, warm, winter.

Wind something howled, banged rain. Flashes in the night draws cracked stove, you fall asleep under the roar and the sound of the river behind the wall, the howling wind and the rattle of rain on the glass wounded. The diet includes chocolate, sweets, raisins. Shop in Sosnovka is open from 11-13, but people live! All put online, fishing control is not afraid. In the summer a lot of visitors.

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October 3

The road after the river suddenly improved, and the weather is not. After jumping through a waterfall, rose higher and moved the old sea shore on the ridges. Wind and rain face tears cloak. My boots have holes in them so that immediately soak at 5-7 holes in each. Gluing I tortured them, patches immediately fall off again with wet feet, suffering terrible. Woods no – Tundra. Before ditches smoothly. In the semi-abandoned pits herders’ base, a house similar to zasrat barn. From the trenches of the same river and the road rocky sea shore relatively, small descents and ascents, but go easy. Then sand beach, Cape smoothly bent into a wide lip, at the end of which you can see the forest and then climb into the hills. On the way we met another half-dead goose pozhevany fox. Well, luck is! However, we save, we have venison donated by Ivan, chew it. Suddenly, in the bay of the hill showing a house and is now proved he’s the best on the coast! The floors are painted, curtains, decoration, I took off his shoes, even unwittingly, before crossing the threshold. Stove excellent. From Deep all twists passed km 14, the rain stopped, the time until dark yet there, and I go for a walk to the Cape. There dugout, home – lemmings, gnawed all that is possible, but to live, if the stove to heat, it’s great. Returning to the house, more like a country, it is warm, beautiful, comfortable, surrounded by copse, noisy stream, you do not want to leave. And of course, as the days, we’re staying here.

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4, 5 October

I wake up early, the sun! The day promises to be, and I immediately, without having had time to wake up, go for a walk in the forest – up the creek. On the way to the woods and did not notice the moose that literally rests in my horns, I was terribly scared, yelling obscenities good, moose gets between the horns stick horkaet and escapes. It makes me a little sad that I was afraid to take a picture of the big game, glyanuvshego at me from the height of his legs at close range, branched horns remembered for a lifetime. Okay … I’m going to the forest river Babia that looking from Cape spotted yesterday, and go out on the sound of the waterfall. Wow, beautiful! Steep cliffs, trees, benches.

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Sun golden autumn decoration melts rock, which is already low! The day is shortened, the night was another frost, but snow or not, sometimes even breaks greens. After trying to catch fish under the waterfall, I go back to the house with nothing, and on the way met bunny! Wow, that really quite white! Dospat 2 hours and rethink what they saw, I go to the new trip to the waterfall – and this time the fish is caught! Just 2 things we fry. Satisfied with the life of man, sit down at a mound near a small campfire – dinner there, a beautiful sunny day! Well, peacefully. Returning to the house, clean the fish are going to go for the cranberries. And suddenly there are people and demolish all. Hunters, flying feathers do not know why they shot ducks cramped in the house, fume, snoring, around the house instantly formed scrapyard. Good, kind people. But the idyll is broken, then any moose da bears, all, end, and tears run over his eyes … Polubessonnaya night hunters are leaving a sea of mud, dirty dishes after them. Do not have time to straighten the curvature being, the sun had smiled, like a helicopter, new guests, povyskakivali with rods yes spinning, a new noise. Sad to leave a nice piece of nature, the mood is depressed. Once all white, clean mess, spoiled. Babya River is easily overcome by the ebb, the forest again moving away from the coast, tundra brown, pre-winter. Go easier, hard-top, through small gullies – Beach vyholazhivaetsya every day. 12 km from Babia – dugout in the coast are 3 km ahead – hut on the river. Lihodeevke. The river is strong, rocky, pass it by re-rolling, perforated legs in boots and get cool. In the hut of our friends hunters zakarmlivayut us fish, sausage and biscuits, but that’s not the food, but in harmony, and it’s hard.

How long it will last wilderness? A hundred years? Or ten?

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October 6

We went out on the route. After 4 km look into another hut (Oh, how many are they on the coast!) To Volodya Koshur who regales us with tea and fish, as it should be. With some Sasha they repair bath, and we especially do not stay, t. To. The day is short, go another 7 km to the hut on Pulonge. The road leads dunes, if not for the turf, just like the desert. Covering the next storm, wind and rain. Feet wet, and I was very freezing, soaked through and through. But the house, the stove warms. Fry the potatoes, cook the goose. All night the wind, rain, 11 hours came Sasha umbsky alcoholic Koshur which took to the sea for re-education. Koshur – an interesting man, an old man can not be called, is found with advanced alcoholics, it teaches them to work. He, of course, working hands are needed, but a more expensive out. Just Koshur – good.

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Sanya something much more confident, even offered to transport us through Pulongu not explain the way, which is why we are stuck in the swamps. Getting out of the swamps, set foot on the shore, and then everything is already in the woods. Low tide in the afternoon, to go perfectly. Rocks still there, but they all licked the sea and they are few. 4 km from Pulongi – chalet, 12 km to another district. Kumzhevaya. Here, a large house and another srach hunters, empty bottles and feathers of the poor birds, scattered on the floor. On the table cast pieces of bacon slicing. So you were hungry, why shoot, took away the lives of others? Pulonga – the river difficult to go to the big water, plates, stones, only low tide.

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On Kumzhevoy slept. I too long fotkal sunset and storm waves, foam. Before d. Pyalitsa another 12 km.

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October 8

Come back slowly. Kumzhevaya River at the mouth above the knee at low tide. Boots are flowing, and I go barefoot, good bottom – sand. Legs instantly get cool, burn, burn them, just terribly, water cooler every day. In Pyalitsa go to his brother Nicholas Ivan Ilyin and his wife Valentina. What are wonderful people! Cabbage soup, fish soup, fresh food, all sorts of goodies, smoke sauna and white sheets …

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Ecology White Sea broken – flounder moved up in size, black-caught specimens. With salmon falling into the net, spilling scales such from birth was not. Sometimes, caught sea fish in fresh water, which also was not observed earlier. Deer knocked out for moose every year it is necessary to go further. According to the forecast of the hunter Ivan Eliseev 2-3 years moose will not be at all. R. Pyalitsa heavily silted up – before it went Court. Estuary silted likely due to the complete cutting of trees along the shore. And this despite the fact that most of the coast Tonya destroyed, that people are now on the bank of the Terek is many times less than it was 50 years ago, when the village is not 30, but 300 people lived, and animals, birds were abundant.

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October 9

The next step – Nikodimsky lighthouse. We leave late hospitality Ilyinykh much relaxed. The weather is fine, the sun. 22 km along the coast are ideal. Great beach, hard sand. Income for 4.5 hours. There is a road from Kuzomelya to Pyalitsa possible on Oise travel. At the lighthouse drunkenness. Fellow senior midshipman and light keeper thumps. Offer vodka as something most valuable, I was surprised to look, when we refuse.

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October 10th

Relax, zakemarili afternoon and did not come out. Clearly, the long-term effect was the journey: fatigue accumulated. Settled on a blank light keeper’s apartment. There is excellent oven, a little wood – already provides heat and keeps it for a long time. Dutch high ceilings. So we cherished.
Nikodimsky lighthouse

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October 11

Finally emerged. Windy second day, cold. Before Chapoma 10 km, several Tonya on the shore, and all on the locks … The first sign of civilization! In Chapoma hang out at the factories – we fed and watered, the vodka is flowing here again, just a nightmare. Hardly possible to avoid intoxication. Nicholas, the owner of the rental, is about Yokanga and other beautiful places.

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October 12th

Exit – to the mouth of Eugene. In Pyalitsa a helicopter could take away free – we do not want, go on. Here, again, we have traveled a couple of cars, but we were too lazy to come off the stove. Go through Eugene failed. Several times I tried to force it into the mouth of the waist and wildly frozen from the icy water. By type not widely, but the tide was, cold, and that was the reason to stay at the stove. While the melt furnace, beating all trembling hands warmed continuously. Generally such swimming is no longer in season at all, that’s how people are freezing, being wet in the wind.


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We are in Strelna.

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Here, the old wooden church. In the village one person, the rest of the visitors, with more than Umba. Slightly above – foreign fishing camp, we were transported by boat across the Strelna, the river is quite large. I can not get enough of their new boots fitted sailors on Nikodimskom lighthouse – I no longer turn every second stream barefoot. The road to Strelna great, I change shoes to running shoes.

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Soon comes the forest and we walk already in the forest, not really hoping for a ride, and even more not wanting it – again around the well, it feels well and lost the desire to hurry. Yes, before we Tetrino today clearly not reach! And then on the way still meets tabunchik wild horses (Yakut women), those living in the tundra all year round, in Bashkir – tebenyuyut dig snow hoof.

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Dreaming, we suddenly turn off the road to the sea and come upon the house, where we spend the night and 10 km from Strelna. In the hut there is no furnace, places and panes in the windows, but dry, you can sleep. At stake napekaem potato, yes it tea – our whole dinner. Suroveet, dusk fast, but the full moon comes out and illuminates the world of depressed vigorous pre-winter chill.

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October 14

And go and do not want to! Premonition civilization oppresses worse than ever, going on the road 3 km, we turn to the north, from the sea to the forest. And the soul is thawing, it comes to life. 500m up and you’re in the wild forest. Man here certainly was, but only presences. Here are locked in a dance dead trees, wood palisade looks afar. Underwood not go on the soft moss and cranberries primitive. Here raspadok, rings stream. We stumbled and bear with cubs, 30 meters, not more. I looked out the sun, illuminating the beauty. to inflame the fire, but to stay here forever … 4 Hours went. We get down on the Kamenka by the night. On the other side of the bonfire on the remains of a military unit, so a little warm up. The water in the river was up to his waist.

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By nightfall Tetrino. We do not just find the night. Village village is strife, and the presence of many tourists in the summer heard by their work. Two travelers Rudolph treats sparingly moldy piece of fish and requires vodka. A man lazy, no guns, no grid, living in his home TV, the porch is going to fix that’s really a year. So stingy, of course, all I used for a fee.

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October 15th

From Tetrino walk again, but the mood is not present – all traces of human presence. After 10 km Tonya, we were not even invited to tea. Another 5 km further Tonya, two young boys, treated them marshmallows, so offended, that sausage is not brought. And do it every day on a motorcycle in the village back. Barely jewels trout the day before yesterday, which was lying in a longboat for a dog. There is one way out – to begin to cook porridge from an ax, frying head and tail piece and offer to treat ourselves. Fishers will be ashamed, maybe something and just settle.

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At night it froze much, it began to snow. In the morning – is white!

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We are again immersed in a new experience, not in a hurry, after 3 km is suspended at p. Rombach tea. Around all the same beautiful Christmas trees … high trunks, short branches.

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A couple of kilometers before Chavanga fishing hut where they serve tea already.

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Pausing to night, suddenly cheered and waved Chavanga 10 km from the hut to the Valdai. From Chavanga already mound, is the only road sign all the way to Kuzomen, ruts and ditches, bridges and all that scary. We go back to civilization. At the Valdai heat o check point heated oven, salmon on the table, the lock is not – it is a breath of air for us. Located.

17 October

At night, the wind, the bad weather. Nature mourns with us. Come fishermen treat fish. Tasty, tasteful lime. Tuck the car, and we’re leaving. The door slams shut and all, Tundra is now outside the window.

About 700 km of the way we passed within 2.5 months, or with all the bells and whistles, even more – I do not think so. I hope I have at least half-step closer to understanding happiness during this time.

Jura Tr. Varzuga carries through the mouth. Immediately podvorachivaetsja machine. Tape road squeezes in the head space limits – earlier I did not see the end, there was no limit – in the gorges of the river sought for turns in the forest amid the trees shimmering gleam. In Varzuga fit into. Rain knocking on the window, the world is sad.

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October 18th

We are lucky, podvorachivaetsja machine to Umba: here they brought wood for the construction of the temple. By minibus back to take out the carpenters, we are with them. Petroglyphs and Umba labyrinth remained oversight, no card, local know nothing. We went to Moscow from Kandalaksha in 2 hours of the night, sipping a cup of tea in the end station for the fire.

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Varzuga. Our staff, who walked around the Kola, Mitrofan father rubbed in a museum!

Published on the website “Kola card” with the permission of the author © Irina Opanchuk

Based on materials from the diary Arbuzov DV

Photo © D. Arbuzov

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on Aug 31, 2016

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